As a Londoner, I love the countryside most, followed by the fresh air, the silence, the lack of cars, the lack of speed cameras and the lack of road humps, all in fast succession . . . and, of course, I like the photo opportunities.
For a start, we don't have many streams like this down south. The stone bridges are mostly quaint, picturesque or photogenic. Describe them how you like - it all means the same thing. Water or cotton mills are a rare sight in London, but seem to be in abundance in the Dales and the stone barns are fantastic. I even quite like the accent.
The drive from London to Yorkshire isn’t particularly arduous, especially if starting out during the very early hours. But unfortunately, the cost of fuel makes it a rarely undertaken outing.
My last trip began in Leyburn, a nice town in Wensleydale and not far from where Wallace and Grommit live. From there I drove west along the A684 towards Hawes, stopping off or diverting to explore the numerous villages or hamlets as I passed them.
Drive west for a few miles and you will come across the village of Bainbridge. If you like to paint a wider landscape, then this initial view as you look down on Bainbridge is well worth considering. Carry on to the wide open, village green filled centre of Bainbridge and you will find many interesting spots from which to paint or take photos in Bainbridge.
Head further west and very near to Burtersett you will see this barn. How satisfying when the farmer who owned the barn came across me taking photos and instead of demanding to know what I was doing on his land, paused from his work and had a pleasant chat. This particular barn is a fantastic example of a Yorkshire Dales stone barn and long may it continue to stand. No doubt had it been in London it would have been knocked down and replaced with a steel version years ago.
Keep on going and you will drive into Hawes, which means ‘a pass between two mountains’ (though I didn’t know that until now). While distinctly vibrant and busy, Hawes still manages to retain the air of an old Yorkshire market town.
Hawes is known to be an excellent base for people wishing to walk or tour the dales and certainly looks it. Must of the inhabitants, whether permanent or temporary, seem to be clad in walkers attire. But while Hawes might appear to cater only for walkers, hikers, mountaineers, abseilers and round the world in 80 days loons, it has much more than that. Not least the memory card I managed to purchase in the most unlikely of shops. That acquisition certainly rescued my otherwise doomed photo taking adventure! I really must try to plan my planning a bit better.
Due to the lack of time and a desire to hit the countryside rather than the town I didn’t actually take any photo in Hawes. What I did do though is to stop off at Wensleydale Dairy Products Ltd in Gayle Lane. The caramelised onion flavour Wensleydale is heartily recommended, though sadly, to my knowledge, it can’t be bought online and as yet I haven’t found it in any shops. Depressing though that is, it's a very good reason to return. I suppose.
Leave the cheese behind, turn left and you will hit Gayle, with its lovely hump backed bridge over Duerley Beck. You will find plenty of places to sit and I can’t really think of a better spot to set up an easel and paint.
While you are in Gayle, don't forget to pay the Mill a visit. Parking is easy and while it's not that big and won't take that long you won't regret it.
From Hawes I drove through Appersett and Hardrow with a quick diversion to Simonstone. Just above Simonstone is Shunner Fell, the highest point in Upper Wensleydale. Apparently, from here, weather permitting, you can see both the Lake District National Park and the North York Moors National Park - you'll have to turn your head a bit, obviously. Unfortunately, I didn’t see much more than a mile or two as on my day the weather didn’t permit.
It was then back east towards Askrigg. For those who don’t know it Askrigg is the home of Skeldale House, where vet James Herriot lived. If painting village scenes is your cup of tea then Askrigg has to be worth a try. You certainly won’t get run over or choked with traffic fumes.
Now for the really adventurous bit. If your car is up to the job and you have a yearning to experience the fear that comes from knowing you will have a long and gruelling walk if you break down, then head north along Cross Top or High Lane. Again, it’s a journey well worth undertaking, as long as . . . well, work it out for yourself.
I survived, returned to tell the tale and then left Askrigg to head north east along Howgate, into The Straights, eventually landing in Carperby. The (since Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves) world famous Aysgarth Falls are a short distance away. Car parking is plentiful (there's even a public lav) and the walk down to the falls is relatively easy – you might find the walk back up to the car park is marginally more difficult though. Don't forget to look around Yore Mill before you retreat to the comfort of your car.
From Aysgarth, I weaved my way through Thoralby and turned right into the B6160, continuing south before bearing right into Stubbing Lane and into Hubberholme. Cross the river and you will be following the line of the river for most of this part of the drive. After a mile or so the road kisses the river and you will see the bridge in Gallery One leading to a farm on the right.
Keep driving, cross the river and this stone house comes up on the left. Park up, get out your tubes of watercolour or oils, set up the easel and paint. All in all this is a very pleasant drive through the Dales.
You will find excellent subjects to paint or photograph all around you as you drive. Such is the extent of the saturation that you might even become immune to the beauty. The feeling doesn’t last long though. You will probably find that as soon as you leave the Dales you will wish you were back there.
If you like driving, it has to be said that driving through the Dales is an absolute pleasure. The traffic is minimal, the bends generally have good visibility and any villages, where you should obviously slow right down, are few and far between.
I can't wait to go back.
No comments:
Post a Comment